Anandpur Sahib was founded in 1665 by the ninth Guru, Guru Tegh Bahadur, and is perhaps the second most sacred site for the religion. It is here in the large sprawling white Gurudwara Takht Sri Kesgarh Sahib, the birthplace of the Khalsa, that we had the langar for lunch, wholesome and filling, and sat on the quiet roof overlooking the town of Anandpur Sahib. Perched on a low hill, the gurudwara affords a sweeping view of the small town, which is filled with white domes and spires in all directions. The little town has one of the highest concentrations of Gurdwaras in the state, something which is apparent as you walk down its narrow lanes. People move about in a slow pace, the weather is a bit hot in the afternoon, and the white places of worship, some with delicate inlay work on the marble, see many who sit in the cool interiors to escape the sun. The white domes all around provide a sense of peace, with the lower Himalayas in the distance. I am not particularly religious but I have to admit that this small town, where the head of the 9th Guru was cremated, filled me with a certain contentment.

Gurudwaras tend to have that effect on people. Immaculately clean, we feel that they should be the norm for how all places of faith, history and heritage are maintained. There is order, quiet and solitude. Usually manned and run by volunteers of all ages, these spaces discriminate against no one, a true embodiment of the social service that the first guru espoused.

Not far from the Kesgarh Sahib is the Virasat-e-Khalsa, the fantastic museum dedicated to the poignant history of Sikhism and Punjab. The five hundred year old history of the religion and the land, so intricately intertwined with each other, is displayed in an engaging manner through paintings, videos, life size cutouts, murals, and multi media displays, including music and folk song. The museum is large and detailed, and takes a couple of hours to go through. The museum provides an inspiring journey and fascinating insight into the history and culture of the religion and people, from the beginning of the faith till present day. The building itself, surrounded by small ponds and water bodies, is beautiful, with gardens all around and small spaces to sit and reflect. The museum is free to all visitors and is open all days of the week, except Monday, from 10am-6pm. Special Exhibits are ticketed.

Some Useful Information:

How to get there: Anandpur Sahib is located 85 Kms from Chandigarh which is well connected by road and rail to major North Indian cities. It can easily be done as a day trip from Chandigarh or Ludhiana.

Best time to visit: Hola Mohalla, which falls on the day after Holi is the most festive time in the city and the three day fair where the Nihangs show off their skills is a huge draw.

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